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Pulling irons

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Swing_King View Drop Down
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    Posted: 27 August 2007 at 7:14am
How's it done? Want to replace the shafts in my irons and wondered what kit I'll need. Thanks.
12Hcp
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LowPost42 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LowPost42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 August 2007 at 11:10pm
You'll need to know the hosel type of your current irons (.370 parallel or .355 taper)
 
You'll need a shaft puller (if it's steel shafted irons, you can just heat and pull with a gloved hand or mallet, if it's graphite you'd better buy a puller if you want to reuse the shafts again).
 
You'll need a heat source (propane torch or heat gun)
 
You'll need new shafts, a method of cutting them, a method of prepping them, and some epoxy to glue them with.  For the love of clubmakers, use golf shafting epoxy, and not the hardware store variety (unless you're never, ever going to sell or give away these irons, and are never, ever going to reshaft them again).
 
You'll also need grips and ferrules (while not necessary with steel shafted clubs, they still make the clubs look nice).
 
I'm a little tired, but I don't think I've missed anything (and we've got some crack builders on the forums that can cover anything I may have missed).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 4:52am
If the irons have not been glued to the extreeme, using hot tap water or put the club in boiling water would be enough. IMO heating gun (warm air) would be the best (?)
Find yourself a drill that is almost the size of the hosel to clean out the glue.  Or use a small metal brush that fits into the hosel.
 
You could manage to save the ferrules by poring hot tap water on them and move them away from the hosel before you start to heat the clubhead (or they will deform or melt...).  Move them afterwards over to the new shaft (use hot water again to make this easier)  But, it is best to buy new.
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Swing_King View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swing_King Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 5:23am
Thanks guys.

I've got all the bits I need (including proper epoxy, Ben) except for some source of heat. The shafts are steel so should make life easier.

How hot does a heat gun go? Will a hairdryer do the trick?
12Hcp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hayes959 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 11:13am
My heatgun goes up to 700*.  Got it at HOme Depot in the paint dept.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 11:19am
I would think 200 deg C should be sufficient.  For a steel shaft you can be quite violant in twisting it off (just do not change loft/lie :-) ), but the hotter, the easier to just pull/twist it off.
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LowPost42 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LowPost42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 12:39pm
I use a plumbers' propane torch - I'm just not patient enough to use the heat gun.    available in your local hardware store.
 
The key there is to keep the heat moving, no matter the source (but more important with the propane torch as it's a more concentrated heat).
 
You need to remove the ferrule before using a puller (otherwise you get a sticky mess).  The method I use is to hit it with some heat, then use pliers to pull it off.  You could also use a knife to cut it off (I still recommend some heat to soften it).
 
The nice thing about a puller vs yanking it with your hand or shoe is that you can 'overtighten' your puller a little, and when the epoxy breaks the head will give a little - a surefire way to make sure you're not overheating the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Archispecman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 3:22pm
LowPost can weigh in on this but I believe it is important to clean the inside of the hosel before attaching the new shaft.
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LowPost42 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LowPost42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 August 2007 at 8:20pm
Originally posted by Archispecman Archispecman wrote:

LowPost can weigh in on this but I believe it is important to clean the inside of the hosel before attaching the new shaft.
 
Uh, that's just a myth. 
 
 
 
I knew I forgot something... or just assumed it made common sense.
 
The best time to hit 'em with the wire brush (a gun cleaning brush'll do in a pinch - remember your hosel size and try to go a touch bigger!) is fresh after the pull when the epoxy is still warm.
 
Don't forget to prep with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol with no additives) and a Qtip.  Acetone is just nasty stuff, but will do in a pinch.
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Swing_King View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swing_King Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 August 2007 at 8:00am
Thanks again, guys, for all the great advice.
12Hcp
History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives.
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